top of page
  • daphneboard

Wave/Leaf D'orsay Pumps -- from start to finish

Updated: Jan 12, 2023

(See the previous post, Handmade Ankle Boots from Design to Finished Footwear for design inspiration for the pattern)

Here I am again, using a large needle that I cut off and sharpened into a chisel for cutting the pattern on my post sewing machine.

This pattern piece is the 'vamp', and becomes the front/toe of the shoe.

This is my heavy paper pattern -- I like that XBoard from HDepot -- it's a great weight and a roll lasts me a long time -- and here I have the pattern clipped to my lining for 'turning' the edge. I have scived the edges of my lining and will run a piece of double sided tape around and hammer the turned edge closed so that the lining appears as a thin 'faux-beaded-edge' on my uppers.

The problem with a turned-lining edge on a D'orsay pump is that it would be very difficult to last. Imagine pulling 3/4 of an upper over a last? So, I cut the missing 1/4 piece out of a canvas scrap and taped it into place for sewing the topline all in one go: my plan was to cut the fabric piece out after pulling the lasts from the shoes (when the shoes are finished, in other words). However, my canvas was too loosely woven and it pulled apart during lasting, so I had to unpick and resew the topline using a thin tightly woven piece of fabric. Lesson learned. (Side note: I tested to make sure the tape I used did not pull any of the grain off of the lining leather--and I also removed the tape after stitching)

Photo of the loose canvas, destined to fall apart TOO SOON! But you can see the concept.

Here are the uppers pulled onto the lasts with the tightly-woven fabric as temporary filling pieces.

Jumping forward, past lasting and toe puffs, etc: I've started stitching the decorative and functional Norwegian welt stitch. Here the lining leather will get pulled under the insole, and the upper (brown) leather gets turned out, creating a welt.

Interior shot of the Norwegian welt inseaming process, including my insole channel toe-stabilization extra thread wrap, as punching close holes in the toe area can lead to ripped channels. The inseam thread goes through the channel cut in the insole, through the lining and upper leathers to the outside of the shoe. A strong construction, and it would be a water-resistant construction as well, if there weren't a lot of punched decorative holes on the vamp!

This last has been used _a lot_ in its previous life on a factory floor in the 1950s in New England. Note the numerous tack holes along the top edge, that I am not putting in more of, because my lining is 'turned' rather than trimmed away after the shoe is made.

I've stitched the upper to the sole here, completing the Norwegian welt stitch process, but I have not closed up the sole channel yet.

I've attached the heels with the decorated heel covers in the upper leather.

The finished shoes:

129 views0 comments


bottom of page